23. Goin' Batty

Tech-Talk

Part 21

Welcome to part 21 of our series.

We've been talking about DC Power.  When we're home, we generally use power supplies that convert house current (110V AC in the US) to the nominal 12V DC that our radios require.  But when we're operating portable, whether for fun, emergency and public service communications, or even "at-home portable" when the lights go out, we turn to battery power.  Let's find out a little more about batteries....


Safety First, Second, and Third!

Batteries can deliver a tremendous amount of current in a very brief time.  Never short the battery terminals.  Never place the battery where metal can accidentally contact the terminals.  Always fuse the positive wire as close as possible to the battery.

Batteries fall into two broad categories.  "Primary" cells are designed for one-time use.  When they can no longer deliver sufficient current -- that is, the voltage is too low to power the load -- we consider them dead and must replace them.  Typical examples are the D, C, AA, AAA, and 9-volt sizes that we're all familiar with.  They're handy for running small devices like flashlights, but not too practical for most Ham Radio applications.

So we turn to the other choice -- "secondary" or rechargeable batteries.  They start our cars, and power our cell phones, tablets, and laptops.  When they go dead, we plug them in, charge them up, and we're back in business.

Rechargeables come in a wide variety of types, differentiated by their "chemistry" -- the types of material that make them up.  All of them rely on some type of chemical reaction to generate useful electricity.  The simplest, and oldest, type is the lead-acid battery.  Car batteries and so-called gel-cells are typical examples.  Early battery packs for hand held devices were Nickel-Cadmium (NiCad) cells.  Later, Nickel-Metal Hydride largely replaced NiCads, and in turn were supplanted by even better refinements like Lithium-Ion and Lithium-Polymer.  Even more exotic technologies exist and will almost certainly work their way into mainstream products in the coming years.

So what makes each advance in battery technology "better"?  To oversimplify, it's an increase in Power Density.  Let's take a look at that concept.

A common way to measure battery capacity is in Amp-Hours, abbreviated as AH.  Smaller batteries are often rated in Milliamp-Hours, or mAH.  In essence, this means the battery's ability to deliver a specified level of current for a specified amount of time before its voltage drops to a specified level.  For example, in theory a common 7AH battery should be able to power a load of 1 amp for 7 hours; a load of 500 milliamps for 14 hours, or a load of 2 amps for 3.5 hours.  In practice, most batteries will exhibit higher capacity when powering smaller loads, and lower capacity at higher loads -- in our example, the 500 mA load is likely to run for longer than 14 hours, but the 2 amp load will stop at something less than 3.5 hours.

Power Density is -- again, oversimplifying -- a measure of Amp-Hours per pound, or Amp-Hours per cubic inch. At left are three common sizes of sealed lead acid gel cells.  In front is a 7AH battery.  It weighs about 5 lbs.  These are often used in alarm systems and emergency lighting units.  In the middle is a 35AH version.  This one is referred to as a "Group U1" size, and weighs about 22 lbs.  And at back is a "Group 24" size -- similar to many car batteries.  It's rated at 79 AH and weighs a hefty 50 lbs or so.  In contrast, a modern Lithium-Ion battery of similar capacity would weigh about 1/3 as much as the lead acid cells.  But as I'm sure you've guessed, there are trade-offs.  First off, Lithium batteries are much, MUCH! more expensive per Amp Hour of capacity.  In addition, they require specialized charging circuits, which add to the cost and complexity of use.  Due to both factors, they are not generally available in standard sizes like the ones at left.

Now, battery capacity may seem like a pretty straightforward idea.  But things get slippery quickly.  As a fully charged battery delivers power to its load, its voltage drops.  A "dead" battery is not necessarily (in fact is probably not) at zero volts.  It simply can no longer supply sufficient power to the load.  It follows, then, that to accurately specify a battery's capacity in Amp-Hours, a manufacturer must also specify a lower limit to the voltage.  Specifying a lower voltage will make one battery seem to have a higher capacity than another.  Surprisingly <g>  some manufacturers use this trick to hype their product over their competitors' products.  And here's "surprising" trick #2.  As we noted above, batteries will exhibit somewhat higher capacity with smaller loads.  In our example, a 7AH battery with a 500 milliamp load lasts longer than 14 hours.  If, say, it powers the load for 18 hours, then some vendors will claim it's a 9AH battery!

A related issue is recharging cycles.  Let's take a brand new 7AH battery.  Well, after it's discharged and recharged, it may be a 6.999 AH battery (note that I'm just making up numbers to illustrate the point).  After the second discharge/charge cycle, it may be 6.998 AH, and so on.  When we say a battery doesn't hold a charge, we mean it has effectively become a zero AH battery.  You've no doubt seen this yourself as your gadgets gradually operate for less time between charges.

Now by altering the physical construction of the battery, it's possible to make it with a higher initial capacity.  But here's the catch -- what they don't tell you is that the capacity drops off at a steeper rate, so you get fewer charge cycles.  Therefore, you'll need to shell out for a new battery sooner and more often.  Caveat Emptor! As always, your best bet is to purchase your battery from a reputable vendor.  Just remember -- if it seems too good to be true, it probably is.
 
That's it for this one, gang.  Next time, we'll continue looking at portable power, and try to answer the #1 question -- what size battery do you need?

73 for now
John Bee, N1GNV
Quicksilver Radio Products

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